Denver (Colorado), Denver s skyline and West-central Colorado

 Denver (Colorado)

 Denver (Colorado): lf you don't believe Denver was once the mining capital of Colorado, look at the 24-carat gold-leaf dome on its Capitol Building, handles or at the local branch of the US Mint that  Let's Go: a quarter of the nation's gold supplies. The Wild West days have long gone, but locals still like to sport a Stetson hat and checked shirt, for old times' sake. The architecture is relentlessly modern, apart from one colorfully preserved street from the old mining days. But what counts is what you see almost on the city's doorstep-the marvelous backdrop of the Rocky Mountains, Denver's backyard.

 Denver (Colorado)

The US Mint (on Colfax) gives free weekday tours (see www.usmint.gov/mint tours/) of its money-making plant. You can see gold bullion and the counting room, full of the finished product. Also on Colfax is the august Capitol Building (East 14th and East Colfax streets). Take the west staircase and stand on the 18th step that's exactly one mile above sea level. The best of the modern city is the Denver Art Museum (West 14th Avenue and Bannock Street; tel: 720-865-5000; www.denverartmuseum.org). Its seven-story walls are covered with million glass tiles over a surface broken up hig- gallery piggledy with slotted windows, a true architectural spectacle. The museum contains a first-class collection of  Native American art totem poles, costumes, and rugs as well as changing exhibitions from all areas of world art.

Old Denver is over on Larimer Street, which has conserved its Victorian buildings as art galleries, stores, and cafés some good Mexican restaurants, too. Larimer Square is done up with courtyards and arcades lit by gas lanterns. But the most authentic piece of old Denver is to be found in the grand lobby of the 1892 Brown Palace Hotel (17th and Tremont Place), the genteel forerunner of the skylit atrium style of today's glass-tower hotels.

 Denver (Colorado)

From September to May, the Denver Symphony Orchestra plays at Boettcher Concert Hall (14th and Curtis streets), an acoustically sophisticated auditorium-in-the-round which, with the audience encircling the performers, provides a unique opportunity to see the conductor's facial expressions. Classical and popular music concerts are held 16 miles (26km) southwest of town in the dramatic, open-air arena of Red Rocks (for tickets go to www.cptl2.org), set in the middle of red-sandstone outcrops.

If you don't have time for an extended tour of the Rockies, you can still get a taste of one of the higher mountains by driving all the way to the top. Just west of Denver, Mt Evans is 14,260ft (4,346m) high, with a paved road to its peak. (Drive 35 miles/57km on Interstate 70 to Idaho Springs and then south on Route 103 to Route 5.) Alternatively, head to Denver Botanic Gardens (www.botanicgardens.org) to see over 700 species of Colorado native plants.

 Denver (Colorado)

 Denver s skyline

Rocky Mountain National Park: Straddling the Continental Divide in north-central Colorado, west of and in between the cities of Fort Rollins and Boulder, the Rocky Mountain National Park is a wonderland of sky-scraping peaks, 150 lakes, rushing mountains streams, Alpine tundra, pristine forests, and an amazing array of wildlife. The park's highest peak is the 14,255ft (4,345m) Longs Peak, which towers over the eastern side of the park and challenges even the fittest of climbers. Another popular destination is Bear Lake, nestling beneath Hallett Peak and the starting point for many hiking trails.

 Denver (Colorado)

West-central Colorado

An ambitious tour of the major resorts of west-central Colorado will take you on a beautiful 360-mile (583 km) circuit through the Rocky Mountains, but if time is limited you may prefer to aim for just one of the big three.
 Natural behavior:

• Human beings are only guests in America's national wilderness areas, and it is not a good idea to interfere with the rest- dents-the moose, antelope, bighorn sheep, bear, bison, fish, and birds. Under no circumstances should you feed bears. The ferocious grizzlies number about 250 in Yellowstone alone, the black bears about 600. A program to remove the bears from the busiest tourist areas has reduced bear-related injuries but bears still seek out campgrounds for food.
• After being reduced by wanton slaughter in the 19th  entry from millions to just a few hundred on the whole continent, bison are back in the Rocky Mountain area. National park's ecological policy of strict non-interference with nature means, for instance, that no attempt is made to save the moose herds from starvation in the bitter winters.

Aspen: Aspen is the best-known resort town in the state. At 7,937ft (2,419m) it provides wonderful winter- sports opportunities, but it 's also a delight in summer, both for its music festival and for hiking, camping, fishing, and horseback riding in the surrounding White River National Forest. In the 1880s the town made its fortune from silver mining, but the market collapsed in 1893 and the town was deserted until revived as a sports and cultural center after World War II. Some of the old Victorian buildings have been preserved with considerable charm and taste, particularly the Opera House and the luxurious Hotel Jerome.
The summertime Aspen Music Festival (www.aspenmu- sicfestival.com) presents opera, classical music, and jazz of the highest order. International stars like to hang out here. They take advantage of the easygoing atmosphere in the Downtown mall and outdoor cafés or go for excursions into the spectacular Maroon Bells mountains southwest of town. In winter, skiing opportunities vary from the family slopes on Buttermilk and nearby Snowmass to the challenges on Aspen Highlands or Ruthie's Run on Aspen Mountain.
Vail: North of the White River National Forest, this is a successful modern ski resort with Swiss-style chalets. In summer it caters to tennis and golf enthusiasts- the only real problem with the golf course being that the scenery is so spectacular it can easily distract you from your game. Surprisingly, there is also enough gentle landscape around to make cycling a special pleasure. Anglers fish for trout in Gore Creek and Eagle River.

 Denver (Colorado)

Vail is a skier's paradise

Glenwood Springs: This destination offers the luxury of a 405ft (123.5m) long swimming pool fed by a stream of natural warm water to a  temperature of 85-90°F (29-  2°C). The waters were much prized by Native Americans as energizers before going on the hunt or warpath. They'll definitely relax you after some exhilarating rafting down the Colorado River.
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